The Cactus Trip Diaries

It was another overcast start to the day. We did not have too far to go, another pass along the new coast road from Bahia Inglesa to Vallenar. Mark had requested another look at Copiapoa dealbata and that promise lay at the end of the road, between Carrizal Bajo and Huasco.

We made an incredible eleven stops, mainly in the pursuit of small Eriosyce, this trip had turned into a Thelocephalathon as Mark and John had really taken to the competitive challenge of finding the first or best of these semi geophytic cacti, or the one in flower, bud or fruit. We’re still looking for a truly cristate specimen but Juan assures us that they exist and that he has images to prove the point.

We did see a huge stand of crested Copiapoa dealbata, north of Carrizal Bajo, the plants that Ritter called C. carrizalensis, not as blue and waxy as the plants at the south of the Rio Carrizal. And at the location that we have now christened ‘Angie’s toilet stop’ where in October she had found T. glabrescens in flower, a real achievement as the Desert was covered in Spring flowering annuals and some perennials. We stopped here again to take pictures of the ‘after’ scenery, without the flowers. What we had missed in October was a crested Eulychnia breviflora, but this time it posed for a few images.

A detailed stop by stop, species by species update of what we saw today will follow at the end of the month

When we got to Vallenar, the capsule that had rescued the miners and had been on display here during our visit at the beginning of the month, had gone. It was on tour and now on display in La Serena. We were very fortunate to have caught it when we did.

People have asked me to include images of our daily adventures, but as writing these missives takes up all spare time, I leave this honour to Juan. I tried to include a formal link to his Flickr site on this Blog, but have not yet found a way to do so. Point your browser www.flickr.com/photos/cactushorridus/sets and select the folder you want to see. Enjoy! and thank you, Juan!

Greetings from Hotel Rocas de Bahia, in Bahia Inglesa, where Juan and I have room 57 on the 5th floor, overlooking the swimming pool and a view of Morro Copiapó from the balcony. John and Mark are in room 11 near reception.

The day started with a slight shock when we discovered that Hotel Plaza does not accept credit cards – we had assumed it did, so we had to pay CLP 270,000 for 5 nights for 2 rooms in cash. Soon sorted, as John and Mark had spare US$ and I had more than enough Chilean to cover my share of the cost. Well, we should have checked when we signed in.

John had asked to take another look on Mt Perales. The track is no better than it was before. It was a bit ‘scrapy’ at times, the bottom of the car must be nice and clean. Mark was keen for me to get closer to the mountain side, away from the edge. The first time, in 2001, we saw ‘Cacti Above The Clouds’. This time (S2039) it was Cacti In The Clouds – poor light for photography and quite chilly.  We only stayed about 30 minutes. There are more masts and the fog nets are down, looks like the wind did its worst. Copiapoa in nets was a novelty picture but I don’t think that it will catch on. Everything was in flower (annuals) and the cacti looked in great health.

We made a brief stop at the ‘best cinerea corner’ about 2/3rds up (S2040). Excellent plants and covered in field flowers. Just as we thought about moving on there was a huge truck crawling up the hill, carrying 3 barrels of water – no idea who they were for – probably a mine down the ridge road. We were parked so the truck was no problem.

A bit lower down, the man, donkey and now a huge pig still live at ‘Three Palms’ and the place still looks a mess.

By 11 we were on the road to Chañaral, did our usual turn into Pan de Azucar, said Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to Smiler (S2041) and took his picture again (it is a he I guess?)

Just after 12 we arrived in Chañaral for a Hot Dog at the Copec. Then a nice stop just north of Caldera where we stopped in 2006, at the time there was a C. calderana growing in a shell, just like a plant bowl (this time S2042). It’s been very overcast all day, so we did not get the best light for show stopper photography

John and Mark, otherwise great at finding Thelocephala were unable to find any T. kraussi. I told them that they were not trying and I’d find some within 10 steps from the car. Pure bluff, so I could not believe my luck when after ten steps I found a 10 headed clump! They could not believe it either, when I said that there would be more within 10 steps from this plant, so John was amazed that after taking 8 steps there was another many headed plant, then another and another and then we got bored 🙂

And so I’m now sitting at the empty pool side at Rocas de Bahia. Empty of people, but full of water, waiting to go for a drink and a stroll into town for dinner. It’s a hard life!

Today John and I decided to have a rest day, while ‘the youngsters’ Juan & Mark decided to climb to the hill adjacent to the entrance to Quebrada San Ramon to take a look at the scopulina form of Copiapoa krainziana and then climb a bit farther to see the totally unspectacular C. montana, growing in a location with some spectacular views over the Chilean coast around Taltal.

The old boys enjoyed a leisurely drive along Ruta 1 until around km 39 where the road connected to the old track that used to be Ruta 1 in 2001. Lots of Copiapoa here, of variable parentage, with the yellow / orange wool of C. haseltoniana on some plants that were growing next to very similar plants with white wool and fewer spines per areole (C. cinerea ssp cinerea) while others had white spines (C. albispina) – probably remnants of the hybrid swarm that can be found in the Quebrada San Ramon. rowing in the rocks, not far from the Ocean, John and I enjoyed a couple of hours just pottering around, taking amazing images for future photo competitions.

We returned to Taltal for a stroll around the square before taking lunch – a salad and a bowl of Asparagus soup at Club Taltal, where the staff showed us their latest treasures, some books that included a measuring instruments catalogue dating back to the late 1800s and probably related to the sea faring history of the town of Taltal.

Today we drove 371 km to see a lot of dead plants, some half dead plants and just a few live plants.

We made the last second and fourth stops of the 22 October 2010,  stopping along the track down from Ruta 5 to El Cobre (S2035) but possibly 200 m further uphill – inland and so even less likely to benefit from clouds drifting in. Plant roll call: C. solaris (mainly dead), C. calderana ssp atacamensis Eulychnia sp. (iquiquensis would be my guess but not enough live material around with recognisable features for a positive ID). Only one C. tenuissima, (which Ian wants to record as his find at this spot in October. You should not have gone home Ian, we can’t find plants without you.), found by Juan.

We missed out on the stop for the hillsides full of flowers along the coast, simply because there were none to be found! We took several pictures of barren hills and I’ll have to drag out the October pictures to show how different things were then.

S2036 was at Botija where this time we met two Chileans, from Tocopilla, who were also cactus mad. They had driven from Tocopilla earlier today and were driving back tonight. One of them, Baldur Cornely Carrasco, has a website at www.copiapoa.cl So we are not the only cactus loco. 

They had driven here in a large 4×4, but had not dared to go too far into the Quebrada, not sure if things would get worse. We had the benefit of David’s report in October ‘that he could have driven his Berlingo in, all the way up to the T junction. I doubt that but we did get our trusted Chevvy all the way to what we used to call the T junction but is hereby renamed as ‘the roundabout’ The track is good enough for a high ground clearance truck to drive in and out. At the roundabout, the tracks lead north and south and disappear around the corners in both cases. The guys from Tocopilla believe that they could be after gold here – looking at the effort being put in. Baldur should know – he is the superintendent at the Mantos de la Luna Mine that we famously reached in 2001 via the coastal track, no doubt causing enough damage to the car’s clutch to have it burn out at San Pedro de Atacama the following day. 

Juan and I have an open invite to visit him in Tocopilla anytime when he’ll show us some interesting places. We did express our surprise at their hesitation to take their 4×4 in. They explained that they were carrying a fridge full of beer and did not want to spill any. Smart move!

Mark drove back along the torturous coast road and learned the special meaning that Paposo has to all of us who went here before, as we craned our neck around every bend to see if we could see Paposo yet. There was a small cheer when we did and a huge sigh when we hit smooth hard top on the outskirts of Paposo.

There was a white car parked at the barrier to the entrance to Quebrada San Ramon. We could have sworn that it was the same car that we had found in Quebrada Guanillos the day before, with Jean Marc Challet and his Mexican cactophile partner, but they said that they were travelling to Antofagasta and not to Taltal. Guess that they must have had a change of heart.

Tomorrow, John and I are taken a rest day, me to catch up on the Diaries back log, John to wash his socks, while Mark and Juan are climbing the hill near the entrance to San Ramon to look for C. montana 

Today was a partial replay of what we did on 12 October. This time starting at Taltal, we drove south down R5 to the turning to Pan de Azucar that eventually takes you to Planta Esmeralda – more of a concept then a physical entity these days.

S2029 was the RitterTL stop for Copiapoa cinerea ssp columna-alba. The sheer volume of plants here really makes you wonder about the concepts of conservation where collecting by hobbyists for their own use is still said to be a major issue. I disagree in general, although I do know of many individual cases where this is true. Commercial collection, with its enormous waste of plants dying between habitat and customers is of course a completely different matter. John & Mark had now joined the ranks of serious Thelocephala spotters – I bet John will be able to spot a GBP 1 coin in Dorking High Street without any trouble on his return. So, once we had stopped being overwhelmed by the number of big cacti here, we started looking for seedlings (many found, although small, possibly already 10 years of age ) and of course stumbled across Thelocephala – E(T) esmeraldana. Again it was plants in bud and flower that helped the process.

As we drove away we saw two gentlemen with Cactus Explorer camera gear deeply engrossed in taking pictures of a cactus in flower. ‘We’re not alone’ I noted.

S2030 took us into the Guanillos Valley to the same stop as the one on October. All the same plants were found (C. laui, C. esmeraldana, C. gradiflora and C. longistaminea, plus Eulychnia iquiquensis and Echinopis (Trichocereus) deserticola. I went to the other side of the valley, opposite the hillside that we explored in October and soon had found ‘Angie’s lauis’, that she can find without the aid of a GPS. It seems that the plants are incredibly more plentiful this time round

S2030a was another opportunity to say hello to Alan Craig – Mark comes originally from Tee side and knew Alan well

Mark had included C. longistaminea on his list of ‘must see’ Copiapoa so S2031 took us to ‘Puma Bay’ where John Childs got lost in 2007, waiting for mermaids. It was also the place where, after the usual large volume of wine, consumed to prepare for a night on the desert floor, Juan and Flo led an attempt of finding Thelocephala in the dark. Without success as I recall. And guess what? today we found a number of T. esmeraldana there – these plants are also more plentiful than you might consider on a first visit.

We went back through the Guanillos Valley (S2032) to find a location of a picture taken by John in 2001, where a stand of Eulychnia creates an impressive scenery. The white saloon car was parked here and the two gents were bussy on a low hill. Juan and I went over to introduce ourselves, while the two shy Brits pretended to look at cacti (lots of C. laui here as well. We had a chat with one of them who did not seem to want to reveal his name but said he was a Mexican and a member of the IOS. e knew John Pilbeam and David Neville from a trip a few years ago in Oaxaca. He introduced his fellow traveller as Jean Marc Challet, Director of the Jardin Exotique in Monaco. They did seem to know who I was (probably using copies of past Copiapoathon Diaries as their tour guide. Jean Marc carried on taking pictures, seemingly embarrassed that I knew of the strained trip he had been on several years ago with Roberto Kiesling and Leo van der Hoeven.

We succeeded where we had failed in October, to find the site where in 2008 we had found Rudolf’s new population of C. esmeraldana and C. laui (S2033). It turns out that we had relied too much on incorrect signage in October and what we thought had been Las Maderas was in fact still the Tigrillo Valley. The C. esmeraldana stood out as extremely green plants and were easily found. But this time we could also add Thelocephala esmeraldana to the list, and in flower!

Members of the October Expedition may remember that on our way through Guanillos / Tigrillo, the track was very bad in places. Now, some 4 weeks later, all these spots had been patched up. uch better than Wiltshire road maintenance!

In 2008 I found a huge crested longistaminea or was it a grandifora plant that unfortunately had been dead for a long time. In my WISLW 2008 – 2009 talk I used to show it and say – Magnificent, even in death’. Well, the recent wet spell must have worked miracles as it showed signs of growth! It was so close to death that we encouraged Juan to take three of the least dead heads to try and get it going again in cultivation.

Then to the C. desertorum with red flowers site where T. weisseri also grows, (S2034 this time) but this time there were no plants in flower. Then back to Taltal via the coast road where we sat down for dinner at Club Taltal at 8

Tomorrow we are off to Botija!

Today was almost a replica of our adventures of 23 October. S2022 was a look at Copiapoa cinerea ssp haseltoniana along the coast road north of Paposo (a few km beyond the Cemetery that had been our October spot)

For S2023 we went up hill to visit ‘The Paposo Virgin’ or at least the little chapel on the way up into the hills where again we found Copiapoa humilis.

We missed the Paposo fog zone spot, as ark and John had seen the Camanchaca at play at Las Lomitas yesterday, so S2024 was the powerline maintenance track that leads to the best population of Copiapoa cinerea ssp haseltoniana – s.n. Ritter’s C. eremophila.  This quebrada still had an abundance of flowers, especially of Alstroemeria at the beginning of the Quebrada – Angie has still not forgiven me for not allowing her to play in the flowers here in October – oooops. 

Ingrid & Ricardo had told us of a Quebrada awash with C. humilis, here growing just a few 100 m above sea level. I remembered such a spot from 2001 but had not revisited it since. S2025 did produce a lot of C. humilis pictures, but they were very difficult to photograph as they were being overwhelmed by spring filed flowers, as were C. haseltoniana and Eulychnia taltalensis!

All along the coast, from some 30 km south of Paposo until Taltal C. cinerea and its subspecies and synonyms make for a very variable group of plants. You could even consider C. ahremephiana a small headed C. cinerea. They seem to increase in size as you travel south along the coast road until you end up at S2026 where there are massive plants that are synonymous with C. gigantea.

As a bonus, we took John and Mark up the road past Taltal towards Ruta 5. Here we had been shown a huge population of C. cinerea ssp cinerea with a number of crested plants, well worth another visit.

S2027 took us back to this spot where there were just as many plants as before, if not more. By now, Juan’s Thelocephala spotting had become so legendary that here his eagle-like vision managed to spot Eriosyce occulta! Mark immediately found a few too – in flower! Better for pictures but not quite such a challenge!.

Back to the Hotel for a well-earned rest.

As Angie reported the first scraping of frost from the car windscreen to get her into a good mood for work, we prepared for a day in the Pan de Azucar National Park.

 Florencia back at base in Lonquen and Juan, our man on the spot had managed to contact a friend who had been a National Park ranger, in charge of the operation at Pan de Azuca. He still had plenty of contacts, so emails were fired off to the CONAF operation in Copiapoa who had sanctioned our visit to ‘the parts that lie beyond the recent barriers’ to the man in charge at Chañaral who in turn had granted authorisation to the rangers in the Park to let us go where we asked. This included, in principle at least, a visit to the Pan de Azucar island, where there is a Humboldt Penguin colony who nest between the cacti. When I visited such a colony on Isla Chañaral and Juan did the same on Isla Damas, the cactus that they had chosen for their burrows were the pendant stems of Eulychnia chorosensis. But the Eulychnia here was understood to be E. iquiquensis. and had it developed a pendant habit on the island?  We still don’t know, because although the authorisations were in place, the fishermen who needed to take us to the island said that the waters were too rough for their pangas. Although the Ocean seemed smooth enough, there were big waves breaking over the rocks off the island. There was no formal landing zone so it would have been a landing from a small boat being thrown about by the waves, onto rocks often covered by water and therefore slippery like ice due to seaweed growing on it. Common sense dictated that we abort that mission this time.

But back to the events of the day. Pedro, the superintendent at Chañaral met us at the supermarket, hoping to get a lift into the Park, as his car was being repaired. As we were quite full with our luggage and 4 people, he rang ahead.

We made a stop before reaching the southern entrance to the Park (S2016) where C. cinerascens and C. serpentisulcata grew together at km 9. Nice to get both species in the same picture as it illustrates the differences best.  Weather was quite overcast, not unusual for the Atacama – just like the Marine layer in California.

We moved on to a small cove (S2017) for more C. cinerascens and C. serpentisulcata, before driving on to km 19 – just before the sign announcing that the cacti along the road are C. cinerascens. Here we put John and Mark to the test for finding Thelocephala. They passed with flying colours, in finding Eriosyce (Thelocephala) odieri ssp kraussi s.n. T. malleolata at S2018.

We then went to various ranger stations around Caleta Pan de Azucar before eventually receiving the key to a chain that blocks the road on the way to Las Lomitas. First we had to drive past the sign posted track for c 200 m. to avoid a fixed barrier across the track. There was a side track that got back to the original track. The chain is in the narrow canyon where in 2003 Cliff screeched to a halt as he had spotted Eriosyce rodentiophila on the rocks.

We were very pleased to once again reach Las Lomitas (S2019). One of my goals was to retake a picture that I wanted to use for the Eulychnia book. It shows the man made fog nets that were used in experiments of how much water could be collected in this way, surrounded by Nature’s own fog nets, Eulychnia, covered in lichen and algae. I’ll have to use photoshop instead, to remove a mark, made by dirt on the camera sensor, because the clouds were in and did not present Las Lomitas at its best. We found C. esmeraldana and Cylindropuntia invicta as well. However, the foxes were missing, having moved on when the area was barred to visitors. Rangers also talked of packs of feral dogs becoming a problem to visitors and wild life alike.

S2020 was at the point where the track to Planta Esmeralda joins the track along the ridge leading to Las Lomitas, producing more images of C. esmeraldana and Eulychnia iquiquensis.

For S2021 we dropped down the track a bit to where the densely spined C. cinerea ssp columna-alba (s.n. C. melanohystrix) grow, as well as C. esmeraldana and Eriosyce (Thelocephala) esmeraldana.

Unfortunately we had to return back the way we came, back to the ranger station and then out of the Park in the east to meet R5 and head for Taltal.

On the October trip we had taken on this stretch of our trip to Argentina and back as part of a full day’s driving between Vallenar and Chañaral. Today we took the whole day to make 10 stops along about 100 km of R5. So we are travelling at a much more sedate pace and seeing more than just the highlights.

After a quick stop at the Super Marcado, we were on our way, and took the turn east off R5 to Quebrada El Leon, where we made a number of short stops, first S2006, still on the flat stretch before reaching the coastal hills, where we found Copiapoa leonensis, a small growing plant, usually solitary here, but sometimes up to three headed, Eriosyce (Thelosephala) odieri ssp kraussii, C. marginata, again solitary plants and evidence that Euphorbia copiapina lives below the ground, with the remains of the leaves already dying back after a brief period of growth when moisture was available.

S2007 was just a bit farther along as Juan spotted the fruits of E. kraussi as we drove past at 30 km p hr – amazing!

We found much the same plants at S2008 at the foot of the coastal hills, but here the remnants of a few Eulychnia could be found. The woolly buds confirmed that it had to be either E. breviflora or E. iquiquensis, but the stems had been so beaten up that there was no fresh new growth visible to confirm wooliness of the areoles. y bet is on E. breviflora.

S2009 was a stop at the Sanctuary for a formation of ‘Granito Orbicular‘ where round lumps of granite appeared to be embedded in sedimentary rock.

We stopped again at Santuario Santa Gemita (S2010) where Copiapoa was extremely photogenic in the strangely shaped granite rocks. Where as two or so weeks ago it had been purple coloured Calandrinia flowers that had coloured up the Desert, here it was a yellow flowered Calandrinia that was in full flower. Seeing the Desert in flower, whatever the colour, remains fantastic. Also spotted Eriosyce taltalensis (pygmaea), Cumulopuntia sphaerica and a rosulate viola (yellow flowers). The Eulychnia seemed to be E. breviflora, but there was little new growth to look for woolly areoles.

S2011 was another roadside shrine near to where we had pulled over in October. Rollcall: C. calderana, Euphorbia lactiflua and fantastic granite rock formations.

The nest stop at El Morado (S2012) was a repeat of another October Stop and this time John & Mark were on their knees – for Thelocephala krausii of course – in flower, alongside C. calderana.

Another stop (S2013) came as we approached Barquito. I thought it was the same turning that we took in 2007, bit this track ended at a disused mine. C. cinerascens was here, the form that Backberg called ‘applanata‘. The Eulychnia now had a woolly hypanthium AND woolly areoles: E. iquiquensis or perhaps its synonym E. barquitensis? Tried as we might to spot Eulychnia along this stretch of R5, this was the first one spotted since E. breviflora at S2010.

S2014 was the turning that we meant to have taken for the last spot and which now brought us to the location where in 2007 Rudolf and a group of super fit climbers (including Juan) went straight up the hill but told the not so fit to take one or two alternative routes to see C. hypogaea. I believe that ultimately we (Juan) did find this plant, but in the ‘car park’ as well as high on the hill. This time there was little scope for stomping around.

S2015 was another quick stop to inspect the other side of the Quebrada, but only produced more small plants of C. cinarescens. Next time I’ll come better prepared!

Although we had been looking forward to Chinese food, this would have to wait until the way home, as the hotel opposite was fully booked. So on we went to the Hosteria, once the domain of ‘God’s Gift To Waiters’, no doubt a highly reliable gentleman but at one pace, without an overdrive facility when circumstances demanded it. Unless he was ill or on holiday, he seems to have been replaced by a team of ladies who between them managed to provide us Pisco Sours, fine red wines and excellent dinner and breakfast. Unfortunately the accommodation was still rather basic and small, so we have booked ourselves into the usual hotel for the return journey, on 14 November, if my memory serves me right. So the Chinese having to wait until we return.

Exactly a month after I left England and I’m already well into my second trip. ‘Doesn’t it get boring?’ Not as long as you have days like today!

Yesterday we finished on S1999 and I had been wondering when I stopped for Summer where I would be for S2000. It could not have worked out better, although it was not a cactus stop, because S2000 was for pictures taken on the way to and at Mina San Jose, where 33 miners had been caught below ground for 69 days. The drama started in August while we were in England and the early prognoses was for them to be released around Christmas. They were actually coming above ground amidst massive global publicity as we were staying in San Pedro de Atacama during the previous trip. Lots of information is available on the internet, for example:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2010_Copiap%C3%B3_mining_accident

I had already posed in the Plaza in Vallenar where one of the rescue cylinders was on display.

In 2003 we had looked for Copiapoa megarhiza along this ‘Caldera to Copiapoa loop road’, an alternative to Ruta 5 that links the two towns along a well maintained dirt track that passes by the entrance to the mine. This time, perhaps better practiced at the art of finding cacti, we had little trouble identifying a candidate hillside and struck lucky for S2001 where we found many C. megarhiza. I had expected strong similarities between these plants and yesterday’s . coquimbana ssp andina, as it seemed strange to me to find any C. coquimbana north of the Rio Huasco. Early gut reactions confirm C. andina’s relationship to C. coquimbana as it clusters more readily than C. megarhiza.

S2002 was just 1 km off Ruta 5 as we headed to our next stop.  Cumulopuntia sphaerica grew here, as it did everywhere else we visited today – a remarkable resilient taxon. There was also a cute, almost leafless orange / yellow coloured Alstroemeria sp. and a few plants of Eulychnia acida struggled on.

S2003 took us to a stop from our 2007 Copiapoathon for C. humilis ssp longispina. The location was readily found and again the plants looked to have survived a long period of draught although some old broken off heads had given rise to regeneration by good looking young stems.

S2004 was for a single, lonely, giant E. acida plant, a venerable giant!

For S2005 e returned to Morro Copiapó and the traditional look at C. marginata and E. (Thelocephala) odieri. There was again a strong breeze and I joked that I had stapled my hat to my head – again. The strong wind gets behind my glasses and irritates my eyes, resulting in an uncomfortable underwater type look at the plants with tears running down my face. Despite this, I found the first few odieri plants, not in the least because they were in flower and advanced bud. I managed half a dozen more plants but then had enough, the wind and my eyes were just not making this an enjoyable stop for me this time.

We returned to Caldera via Bahia Inglesa and promised ourselves a night here on our way back.

Tomorrow we return to Chañaral with the promise of Chinese food.

Going past old haunts is all very well, but a good balanced program also includes something new. And so we headed north on R5 until the second turning west to Carrizal Bajo. But we went in fact about 100 m farther and took the turning east to El Donkey, a name that had always intrigued me during the many times that we drove past here. This time we had a cactus excuse: Ingrid and Ricardo had published a new cactus species from here in 2009: Copiapoa coquimbana ssp andina. We drove the 26 km on good dirt to El Donkey, which turned out to be a one ‘horse’ town. A rather dilapidated house and a cloth covered structure with a sign to announce that it was the commune’s meeting house and a dog that seemed rather over anxious to welcome us.

We made a stop (S1993) for some Eriosyce eriosysoides growing in the rocks. Also found were the omni present (for the last few days) Cumulopuntia sphaerica, and some rather poorly Eulychnia acida. Yet they were still flowering or in bud and bald hypanthium leaves no doubt about their ID. On latitudes where it co-exists with other species, E. acida tends to be the one that grows inland, while the other takes over the coastal niche.

We carried on for a few more miles, until passed the abandoned mine at Mercedita. After this five shack settlement the track deteriorated fast and it seemed wise, at the next turning round point, to do just that. We had already earmarked some stops for the way back.

The first of these S1994 gave us C. coquimbana ssp andina, C. sphaerica and Eulychnia acida.

Not satisfied with this at S1995, at km 21.2, we had spotted some Copiapoa against the rocks on the way up. Our more detailed visit gave us more pictures, including two plants in flower. Mark was the first to find one of these and commented that the flower was reddish in colour. I found my plant much lower down the rock face and found it to be more orange in colour. I must check out the colour given in the description of the plant. As a Dutchman, it is tempting to describe am orange flowered form as fa. naranjaflora. Other plants as reported for S1994.

S1996 was for a location previously visited for Eriosyce (Thelocephala) aerocarpa. The plants were not too difficult to find and Juan was especially pleased as it was the first time that he had found seed at this location.

As we seemed to be in Thelocephala mood, S1997 took us back to see E. (Thelocephala) challensis, onlt a fortnight or so after our last visit. It seemed that uanacos had feasted on the plants since then, as it had become more difficult to spot plants and there was plenty of evidence that their scraping had been rewarded with plant heads.

A bit farther along the track to Carrizal Bajo S1998 became again the ideal group photo stop as large clumps of C. dealbata are hard to beat for impact.  Having spotted one E. acida among all the E. breviflora last time, I had a closer look but here, some 12 km inland, the mix was roughly 95% E. breviflora, confirming its status as the coastal plant.

As time pushed us on, the last stop of the day, S1999, was a quick one for E. (Thelocephala) monteamargensis. We had driven through the same area that two weeks ago had been awash with purple flowers but that today looked as desolate as any part of the Atacama usually does. Amazing, what a transformation. There were just one or two patches along the track, perhaps benefiting from a little more humidity along the road?, that had a square meter of purple left, but the impact was lost.

We’re spending two nights at Hotel Puerto do Sol in Caldera, with wifi in each of the Cabana type tipi huts.