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Tuesday, 15 December – Vitoria da Conquista to Caetité

I guess that Diaries should cover the whole day, but sometimes it is more convenient to post an entry towards the end of the day and then miss out what happened next.

Well, today started at about 1:30 a.m. when Alvado drove us back to the hotel after we had dinner with his charming family and had drunk most of his beer. The life of a Cactus Explorer is a hard one.

The getting up the next morning was harder, but fine as long as you take things at an easy pace.

We had a 256 km drive to Caetité ahead of us, on asphalt, which this time turned out to be more of a handicap than a benefit, as the road was in such bad state of repair with holes so large that you could lose a cyclist in them! But the good news is that work is in progress to turn it into smooth new hard top with some stretches already finished.

We found a nice hotel with wifi and despite the early hour, decided to use the rest of the day as a ‘catch up day’, especially now that Marlon had shown me hot to get data into my GPS manually, the hard way! Well that was on Sunday. By this afternoon I was again wrecking my brain as I must have missed out a critical step. But, perseverance pays off, so I now have the next few days of planned stops safely stored away – but had wasted (or rather, invested?) a couple of hours in the process.

No pictures taken at all today, so a chance to catch up and reducing the back log.

Monday, 14 December – around Vitória da Conquista

Today was another day that you can only dream about.

In May 1999, Marlon, Brian Bates and the late Keith Grantham toured here. Marlon told us how he had friends here who were involved in a cactus conservation project concerning Melocactus conoideus that only occurs in a range near the town of Vitória da Conquista. In their original description in 1973, Buining and Brederoo mention that the type locality where the plant was found was at the cross overlooking the city. I’m not sure of the population of the town at that time, but today ….. over 300,000!

At that time, the area had been used by local people to quarry in small quantities for building materials. They would destroy the vegetation to get to their materials and that vegetation included the Melocacti. The local action group drew the town council’s attention to the problem and they agreed to fence off part of the area so that the Melocacti had a chance to recover. Unfortunately, the area is regularly affected by fires and these would burn down the fence poles so that once again the plants were exposed to builders’ digging.

They were considering this dilemma at the time of our visit. The logical answer was to use concrete posts that would withstand the fire. The materials for building the posts was the natural material of the hillside, but it would require a team of people to do the work and this cost needed to be met. Keith suggested the BCSS conservation fund might help and the Vitória da Conquista team plus Marlon submitted an application that I passed on to Keith to present to the Conservation Committee. The request was granted just as Portsmouth Branch’s President, Ken Etheridge, a lover of Melocacti, had died. The auction of his plants and books raised considerable amount of money and the request was made that if this was passed as a donation to the Conservation Fund, could this be used towards this Melocactus related project. I understand that such requests are not normally granted but in this case the application for funds and the bequest came so perfectly tied that this is what we understand to have happened. Marlon wrote a report for the BCS Journal reporting that the work had been done and now, some 9 years later, Cliff and I had an opportunity to see its affect.

In 1999 I believe we only spotted six plants and recorded plenty of evidence of damage inflicted by the digging activities. This time, a guide appointed by the Mayor’s office showed us around (S1592) and we could not believe our eyes, seeing how nature had recovered from the threatened disaster. There were now thousands of plants in the smaller part of the project that we had a chance to view. This was the part that had the worst damage inflicted in 1999. 

The authorities had left the terrain more or less they way we had found it in ’99, with plenty of evidence of the digging ten years ago. But now there were thousands of Melocacti growing in the rubble. Some magnificent adult specimens with well developed cephalia, but more important, a greater number of seedlings of all sizes. We also noticed that there seemed to have been far fewer, if any, fires, suggesting that these were man made to facilitate getting to the gravel.

This project deserves recognition as one of the most successful cactus conservation projects that I am aware of. Local people had identified the risk, as had Nigel Taylor’s work in preparation of the Red List of endangered species. They had found a solution that would suit the inhabitants of the town, by only fencing part of the area that was used for quarrying, respecting the age old tradition of this activity. They had some set backs but persisted over a number of years. The BCSS contribution made a significant difference to just one of the challenges that they faced and showed that there was wider support for the issue without imposing unnecessary rules.

Ten years later, the evidence is that the population is safe, although, due to its small restricted distribution area, it will always remain vulnerable, should a major disaster affect this area.

The area was being used for educational studies and visits. By leaving the area effectively unchanged, it clearly shows what went on and demonstrates nature’s ability to recover from near disaster. A certain amount of maintenance of the area was evident, with dead wood removed and being recycled and ornaments being produced from the recycled materials. I hope to obtain more information about this aspect.

It is interesting to note that near by (some 100 km away) Arrojadoa marylanae also occupies a small, isolated, unique habitat and so must also be considered vulnerable to a disaster striking that area. It is not currently under threat by a fast growing population centre, but recently a mining company was granted government permission to carry out exploratory mining test. The local action group registered their protest and concerns and for now, these tests appear to have stopped. We have made some great friends among the people involved and promise to keep you involved on any developments.

What a morning!

The day was capped by another member of the action group, Avaldo de Oliveira Soares Filho. Avaldo is the botanist at the Herbarium at the State University of Southwest of Bahia (UESB) and co-author of the description of Arrojadoa marylanae among others. He showed us around the University and the Herbarium and then took us to an area of forest that had been left untouched by human development and that served as study material for the students to gain an understanding of the local plants and the way that they grow and interact (S1593).

As we struggled through the dense vegetation (again!) we recorded seeing Pereskia bahiensis, Pilosocereus pentaedrophorus, Cereus sp. (similar to C. jamacaru but reported to have yellow fruits rather than red ones as well as some other differences that I’ll need to read up later (Nigel Taylor’s Cacti of Eastern Brazil) and Brasiliopuntia brasiliensis, all towering way over our heads above the canopy of the forest. 

This was so unlike the usual cactus habitat environment that Cliff and I would never have thought to look here for cacti, but we were very glad that we did.

Sunday, 13 December – Sussuarana to Vitoria da Conquista

Sorry to have been away from the internet for a few days. I’ll try to catch up with the back log of reports over days to come.

We had an early start, helped by the heat and mosquitoes who had managed to get into our mosquito nets. After breakfast we set off, made a quick stop at Marylan’s aunt to arrange the slaughter of a chicken for dinner and then off to the farm where we picked up Raulino who managed the area of the farm that had the huge quartz inselberg. Our target plants for the day, Espostoopsis dybowskii and Arrojadoa marylanae grew on top (S1588). We drove as far as we could in our city slicker car and at 9:15 started our walk (already in the melting heat), to arrive on top of the hill at 10:00.

It was not the easiest of cactus habitats to get to, but also not the hardest and the view from the top of the inselberg was worth every drop of sweat. The Arrojadoa is simply the tallest freestanding member of the genus and it is remarkable that it only grows on this quartz outcrop and not on any of the other quartz fields that we were able to see from the top and later, as we drove away. Marylan had been to investigate them all and although E. dybowskii has been found on some of them, A. marylanae to date has only been found here. The sad news is that the hill is being checked out for possible mining / quarrying potential, said to be for marble, but fortunately this has been stopped for now when the authorities were made aware of the ecological importance of the site.  

An amazing place, where we’ll let the pictures do the talking.

S1589 and S1590 were brief stops along the track back to Sussuarana. At S1589 I saw Stephanocereus leucostele, Melocactus and Pereskia bahiensis, while at S1590 we found all the previous cacti and I renewed my acquaintance with Coleocephalocereus goebelianus and Pilosocereus catingicola  (Ritter’s ‘blue form’). and P. pentaedrophorus

S1591 was for an area of bottle trees where we saw some impressive members of the Malvaceae family, subfamily Bombacoideae: Ceiba glaziovii and Cavanillesia arborea which Marlon did give me the full botanical names for, but without pen & paper handy at the time, I’ have needed to ask again. Cacti found: Cereus jamacaru and Pereskia bahiensis.

Tomorrow we get picked up by a car and driver from the Mayor’s office of Vitoria da Conquista!

Saturday, 12 December – Milagres to Sussuarana

I should have mentioned that Bahia, closer to the equator than Minas Gerais and Rio Grande do Sul, does not participate in moving clocks twice a year between summer and winter time. As a result, we one hour further behind the UK’s current winter time; 3 hours different.

Marlon had asked if we could make an earlier than usual start, so although the clocks suggested that it was early, our body clocks, still on MG time, did not notice any difference.

Last night we had passed a number of stalls along BR-116 where articles on display included pottery, an array of straw hats and … cacti – dug up from nature and offered for sale. I had seen this in 1999 but we never stopped to take pictures, so we remedied this with our first stop of the day, S1582. Marlon explained to the sellers that we were foreign tourists and were unable to take heavy pottery and plants with us, but they were very happy for us just to take pictures. The plants on display provided a good indication of what nature had to offer here: Melocactus bahiensis and M. ernestii (including an unusual tall thin form that Marlon has not seen in nature, Pilosocereus gounellei, including many crested plants and Tacinga inamoena, with several plants in flower.

More text to follow

S1586 John’s Quarry. The John in question is John Hughes from the UK who stumbled upon this location when he was waiting to meet Marlon in Jequié in 2001. This is an amazing place, an old quarry, last worked some thirty – forty years ago, that nature has reclaimed since with walls full of (mainly) Melocactus.

S1567 was for plants seen along the road between John’s Quarry and BR-116.

 

In the mean time, here are some pictures of ‘John’s Quarry’. Members of the BCSS will need to look through their journals for Marlon’s article about this a few years back.

Friday, 11 December – Confins, MG to Milagres, BA

The car was checked in, again, without any problems. It had served us well and got us to places where I had not thought that it could.

Check in at the airport was also nice and smooth, with the only snag that our flight was delayed by over an hour. The only snag there was that Marlon had to spend extra time waiting for us.

Marlon had booked another Chevrolet Minerva for us for the first two weeks of our trip in Bahia. On 28 December John Senior joins us again from the US and Marlon has also found the time to join us, so we’ll need a larger car and have booked a Fiat Doblo.

Marlon’s ambitious plan was for us to drive the 500 plus km to Vitoria da Conquista today AND make a few cactus stops on the way. Due to our delayed flight and the heavy volume of trucks and lorries on the main highways (still only one lane each way most of the time) it was more sensible to aim for Jequie instead and eventually to find a hotel in Milagres, right in ‘inselberg country’ with interesting cacti lined up for tomorrow.

Thursday, 10 December – Diamantina to Confins

Again an uneventful day when, so far, I have not taken the cameras out of the bag. We took a leisurely drive staying on hardtop, i.e. ‘the long way round’ and arrived at the Airport around 15:30. Although we had provisionally booked into the hotel in Lagoa Santa, we were so early that we decided to look around the town of Confins to see if they had anything better to offer. They had, with a price to match, but overall we kept to below our budget in Minas Gerais, so tonight we are staying in Hotel Fazenda Confins, within earshot of the Airport, but with very few day time flights only that is not an issue. Take a look for your self:

http://www.hotelfazendaconfins.com.br/acomodacoes.asp

We’re all set for an early departure to drop off the car and report in good time for our 10:55 flight to Salvador, Bahia.

Wednesday, 9 December – Itamarandiba to Diamantina

Today was a completely uneventful.

As indicated yesterday, we had more or less completed our cactus list for Minas Gerais, so decided to go the easy, comfortable but longer way back, on asphalt, to Diamantina, where we arrived around noon. We had not bothered to stop on the way and our cameras had not come out of their bags.

We were greeted like long lost friends by the staff at the hotel and felt the same way about returning ‘home’.

With time on our hands we had our main meal early and had the car washed at the service station next door. As in England, just after driving out of the car wash, the clouds looked very threatening, as though rain was imminent. So far, not a drop as yet.

We leave tomorrow for a 286 km drive to Lagoa Santa, some 10 km from Confinis, a.k.a. Belo Horizonte Airport for our last night in Minas Gerais before flying out to Salvador, Bahia where the cactus adventure continues.

Tuesday, 8 December – south of Itamarandiba

I’ll start where I left off yesterday: we had another great day!

First, we finally succeeded in equipping ourselves with a machete each, so we’re ready for more impenetrable vegetation.

Second, we managed to get to Uebelmannia gummifera – the ‘easy drive through population’. I did not see this species in 1999, just its ssp. meninensis that we tried to see again on 23 and 24 November, only a few weeks back. Then we tried from Diamantina and found the tracks in very poor repair, waiting for asphalt.

We spent a long time there, indulging in photography rather than racing on to the other Uebelmannia populations. We’ll do them next time (pencilled in for another Brazil trip in 2014 ) when hopefully both Pedra Menina and Penha de França will be on a nice asphalt road that at Pedra Menina has been extended to lead straight to the U. meninensis site! A bar and ice cream parlour near by would provide the excuse for the road and would be appreciated.

Cliff had a bad stomach during the night, so taking it easy was the sensible thing to do. No idea how Marlon managed to get busses across these tracks. There were at least three places where Cliff said: ‘Well we can go down, but I doubt if we can get back this way!’ So after the U. gummifera stop we carried on turning left each time there was a junction and eventually got to tarmac. Great driving, Cliff!

It looked on Google Earth that at one stage we were ‘close’ to U. buiningii – as the crow flies – and we could see quartz fields in the distance, but there was at least one valley in between, so probably 4 times as far as we thought.

It is good to have things to come back for: D. horstii, U. buiningii, U. rubra etc.

For me, it put the final tick in the list of taxa to have seen this time round. So, in a way we’re winding down and getting excited about Marlon’s suggested itinerary for Bahia. What a list of cactus species that will add!!!

Tomorrow we head back to Diamantina, get the car washed and the next day drive to Lagos Santana, the nearest town to Belo Horizonte Airport for an early departure on Friday.

Monday, 7 December – Itaobim to Itamarandiba

Greetings from Hotel Marlise in Itamarandiba.

Today, the town seemed a lot friendlier than when we came here looking for Uebelmannia gummifera a few weeks ago. I realised at the time that I was ill prepared and needed to have taken down all the relevant details of how to get to these location from the internet before leaving Diamantina. None of the hotels here advertised the fact that they have internet facilities and, from past experience, did not ‘look’ as though they had. Wrong! This hotel, above shops and apparently without parking space for the car has private parking and internet access! They just like to keep their marketable assets a secret.

Today was a long driving day as we knew it would be. 276 km but about 110 km of that was ‘not the best dirt’ (again, signs were up to say that asphalt was on its way, so maintenance seemed to have been put off. I guess we averaged 30 km p. hr. so the hard top bits were like heaven.

We had intended to see if there were likely locations to the west of Itinga, but the low hills that seem to be a feature south of the Itaobim – Itinga road disappeared just outside Itinga, and with that any sign of bare granite and suitable habitat locations. At least this stretch was fast and because we thought that we had plenty of time, we cruised at a leisurely 80 km.p.hr. Then the road turned to dirt, just as the map had suggested. not a major problem, except that our speed dropped and direction signs at forks and crossroads were missing. Although my GPS Unit has never been connected successfully to a computer to be updated with Brazilian maps (or did Juan do this in September?). In any event, it was suddenly displaying roads (with road number!) that we were on and giving us directions of turns we had to make. But how did it know where we were going? I had not found a way to tell it! Eerie!!

Eventually it started to get it wrong, I no longer wanted to go where it wanted me to go, so it went into a panic, each time that we passed a turning, recalculating the route to who knows where.

We made just two stops. S1578 was a reminder of what BR 367 (check) that had been nice smooth asphalt as it ran past our hotel in Diamantina, had turned into father north. A poor track that at one point had lost a bridge, by the looks of it quite some time ago, so that no traffic had to go through the river. Despite recent rains and other rivers that we had seen being in full flow and near to bursting their banks, here the water level was still manageable, even for our city slickers’ car.  

As we walked back to the car, I spotted a huge flower hanging from a vine. I’m sure that I saw something like it at Kew or was it RHS Wisley? The flower must have been 30 cm in diameter, with a ‘dead meat’ pattern, similar to that found in some Asclepiads. At it gently spun around on the vine it turned its back to us revealing a pitcher like organ. As there is a distinct lack of cacti today, I’ll include some of the pictures of the plant. Marlon tells me that it is Aristolochia gigantea.

S1579 was close to Itamarandiba and is for pictures taken as we drove through endless Eucalyptus plantations. They had been harvesting the wood. (Wikipedia suggests an unbelievable 5 year cycle from small seedling being planted to a (very thin) 30 ft tree being harvested!). Here, for some reason, they had left a single row of trees standing. They formed an amazing profile from a distance; with the stems hardly visible the crowns of the trees seemed to be suspended in the air. I took a few shots from the moving car, but was very pleased when Cliff was able to pull onto a side track where we were able to snap away without fear of being run down by a truck.

On entering Itamarandiba, we spotted the road that Marlon had suggested in his very detailed instructions to get to a U. gummifera site, but with the time pushing on and no accommodation booked, common sense suggests that we’ll do that one tomorrow.

Despite lack of cacti, another great day!

Monday, 7 December – Itaobim to Itamarandiba

The end of this current cactus trip of Minas Gerais, or rather of the drainage area of the Rio Jequitinhonha in Minas Gerais ends on Friday. The good news is that we then fly from Belo Horizonte to Salvador in Bahia for a four week tour of that state and more cactus stories.

Not sure of Internet facilities for the next few days. The plan for the week is:

Monday: Drive to Itamarandiba and renew our hunt for Uebelmannia gummifera and its ssp. meninensis and may be U. buiningii.

Tuesday: Another night in Itabirandiba

Wednesday: Drive to Diamantina. A bit more sightseeing. We’ll have internet facilities there, so shoud be able to send out an update from here.

Thursday: Drive to Lagao Santa, near the airport. Get the car cleaned inside and out (Andres never got this in Chile from us!)

Friday: Early morning car check in and flight to Salvador where we look forward to meeting up with Marlon.